La Abeja dominates the Denver taco scene

Publisher’s Note: This is part of our Employee Favorites series. Each week we share our opinions on the best that Colorado has to offer for dining, shopping, entertainment, the outdoors, and more. (We’ll let you in on some of the hidden gems too.)

As a taco fan, I devour all types. I grew up on the faint Tex-Mex echo that is considered Mexican food in the Midwest, and when I moved to Colorado I was stunned to discover the rest: the chic chef takes up street tacos; the regional, green, chile-rich plates; actual Tex-Mex; even the fusion stunts that pour out of food trucks and upscale tequila bars.

But my favorites are the Mexican interior styles, where shredded cheddar, sour cream, hard shell, and ground beef are hard to find. (I love these places too, but I don’t long for them anymore.) Among the more humble Citadels of Taste – El Taco de México and Taqueria La Familia are two big suppliers – La Abeja quietly dominates Capitol Hill.

A decade ago, I praised its burritos, tortas, flautas, enchiladas, chiliquiles, and more in a blurb on the Denver Post. “The Carne Asada puts many of the vague chunks of protein other joints toast as steak to shame, and the amount of meat on the steaming corn tortillas makes the giant tacos – peppered with lime, onion, and green salsa or red hot salsa – seem ridiculous,” I wrote .

That’s all still true, but after the pandemic, I’ve focused on supporting independent family businesses that I love. Fortunately, La Abeja is as tasty as ever, whether it’s a quick fire takeout or a meal in its humble dining room with seating. You can’t go wrong with any type of taco, but the Al Pastor and Carnitas – which visitors can occasionally see / hear in the kitchen – are pillow-shaped, deliquescent, consistently prepared blessings. There’s no wrong way to love a taco, but La Abejas are here to love you. Daily 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. 508 E. Colfax Ave. 303-832-1911 or visit the Facebook page.

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